LCO vs. LOC Method: The Complete Natural Hair Moisturizing Guide

The LOC method and LCO method are both effective ways to hydrate textured strands. Here’s how to decide which technique is right for you.

By Leann Garofolo & Powered By L’Oreal Professional Products Division

Update Date: 19 Jul 2024

Leann Garofolo

If you have curly or coily hair, you’re likely no stranger to dealing with dry, frizzy, or unmanageable strands. It’s no secret that textured hair has unique needs, requiring thoughtful consideration and care to look its absolute best. In the seemingly endless quest for personalized styling solutions, two popular strategies have emerged in the natural hair community: the LOC and LCO methods. These techniques, although similar in principle, slightly differ in how haircare products are applied to ensure optimal hydration and curl definition. This begs the question: Which method is better, LCO or LOC?

We teamed up with Ashley Lee, Mizani brand ambassador and stylist, to get the scoop about how these application methods differ. We’re also breaking down a few of our favorite haircare products to try them with. Keep scrolling to discover how you can help your mane feel more moisturized than ever before.

What Is the LOC Method?

The LOC method is an acronym for liquid, oil, and cream, representing the order in which styling products should be applied. This sequence of layering products is believed to maximize hydration and enhance curl definition in highly porous, coily hair types. The general steps are as follows:

• Liquid or leave-in: Start with a water-based product or leave-in conditioner to help immediately hydrate your hair. The key is to ensure you have enough moisture in your strands so that you can lock it all in during the subsequent steps.
• Oil: Apply an oil (formulas with coconut oil, argan oil, or jojoba oil are popular options) to provide additional nourishment and help create a moisture-locking barrier over your strands.
• Cream: Finally, use a cream-based product (like a curl cream or butter) to help define and hold your waves, curls, or coils.

What Is the LCO Method?

In the LCO method, you use the same products as the LOC method, but you swap the order of your cream and liquid. Applying formulas from lightest to heaviest (liquid, cream, oil) is thought to help products better sink into your strands instead of just sitting on top of them.

The LCO method also typically involves waiting to apply oil until your strands have absorbed the liquid and cream. Why wait? The answer is simple: Water and oil don’t mix. According to Lee, “By applying oil on dry hair, oil is able to really work into the hair, not just sit on top and block out product as it might in the LOC method.”

What Is the Difference Between the LOC Method and the LCO Method?

The key differences between the LOC method and the LCO method are the order in which they are applied and how they work to seal the hair.

• Order of application: In the LOC method, you apply liquid, oil, and cream in that order. For the LCO method, you apply cream before oil.
• Sealing technique: The last step in both methods is meant to seal in moisture. Some people find that applying an oil last (LCO) provides better moisture retention, while others prefer a hydrating curl cream for the job (LOC).

Which Is Better, the LOC Method or LCO Method?

There isn’t a definitive answer as to whether the LOC or LCO method is better. Which one you should try mostly boils down to personal preference and how your hair responds to different layering techniques. Your curl type and hair porosity can also help you pick the right method for you.

In general, many experts believe that LOC is ideal for high-porosity hair, a common characteristic of coily hair types ( 4A- 4C). In highly porous hair, the cuticle layer is raised, allowing moisture to flow in and out of the hair without actually getting locked in. As such, applying an oil followed by a thicker cream can help ensure maximum moisture gets sealed into the hair shaft. Plus, LOC can also keep frizz at bay and prepare your hair for styling.

The LCO method, on the other hand, is typically better suited to those with low-porosity hair. Having low porosity hair means that your strands have a more tightly bound cuticle layer, making it harder for water, moisture, and nourishing haircare formulas to penetrate properly. The LCO method can help ensure all of your products absorb as intended—and applying an oil last can theoretically help create a stronger barrier against moisture loss. In addition, LCO tends to be well-tolerated among those with looser curl patterns since following a lightest-to-heaviest application order is less likely to weigh hair down.

At the end of the day, there aren’t any strict rules to adhere to. Play around with the order of your products until you find the routine that helps your hair look and feel its best.

Our Favorite Leave-Ins, Oils, and Creams

Whether your hair is long, short, wavy, textured, or something in between, Lee says the key to making either method work for you is to find the right products for your hair.

She expands: “For fine hair, choose lighter products in lesser quantities. For hair that is dense or coarse, select products that are more intensely moisturizing for longer-lasting results.”

If you’re looking for products to add to your next wash and styling day, here are some of our top picks:

Mizani 25 Miracle Milk Leave-In Conditioner

This lightweight leave-in penetrates deep into strands to help prep, protect, and moisturize hair for superior detangling and hydration.

Biolage Professional Hydra Source Daily Leave-In Tonic

Dry hair is no match for this Biolage Professional tonic. The formula, inspired by the hydrating aloe plant, helps optimize moisture balance for healthy-looking hair.

Mizani 25 Miracle Cream

This leave-in cream defines and moisturizes dry ringlets, also providing UV protection. A little goes a long way, just emulsify a small amount in your hands and apply.

Matrix A Curl Can Dream Moisturizing Cream

The manuka honey-infused formula helps keep flaking and crunchiness at bay.

Redken Hydrating Curl Cream

Ideal for dehydrated, unmanageable hair, this cream enhances curls and offers up to 72 hours of moisture.

Mizani 25 Miracle Nourishing Oil

Lee recommends using a lightweight oil, specifically designed for hair, to avoid heavy oils that simply sit on top of the strand.

Kérastase Elixir Ultime L'Huile Original Hair Oil

This oil controls frizz, strengthens hair, and provides heat protection up to 450°F.